Thursday, December 31, 2009

Guinea Pig Trivia – A Quiz About Our Cavy Friends

Just how much do you know about the guinea pig? Take this short test of cavy knowledge to find out.

1. What are baby guinea pigs called?

a. Puppies

b. Guppies

c. Sprouts

d. Forest Gump



2. Guinea pigs need to be given supplements of which vitamin?

a. Vitamin A

b. Vitamin B

c. Vitamin C

d. Flintstones chewables

3. Which of these animals is the most closely related to the guinea pig?

a. Rabbit

b. Penguin

c. Beaver

d. Forest Gump

4. Where do guinea pigs originally come from?

a. Africa

b. South America

c. K-Mart

d. Their moms

5. When guinea pigs spring into the air, it is called…

a. Percolating

b. Tiddly Winking

c. Popcorning

d. Springing into the air

And now for the answers:

1. Oddly enough, baby guinea pigs are called puppies. You might expect them to be called piglets in order to keep the pig reference consistent – because adult male guinea pigs are called boars and female guinea pigs are called sows.

2. Guinea pigs must be given daily vitamin C supplements because they, like humans, lack a particular enzyme needed to manufacture this vitamin in their bodies.

3. The beaver is most closely related to the guinea pig. (Forest Gump is most closely related to the summer sausage.)

4. Guinea pigs are originally from the Andean region of South America which consists of modern day Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru. Tribal peoples raised them as food. (I hear they had a guinea pig meat loaf that was to die for. It was great smothered in cavy gravy.)

5. When guinea pigs spring into the air, it is called popcorning. Those of you who answered springing into the air get extra credit for your tremendous grasp of the obvious.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Guinea Pigs – The Importance of Vitamin C

You and your guinea pig may have more in common than you realize. Both you and your guinea pig must have vitamin C to survive. Unlike other mammals who manufacture vitamin C from glucose in the body, you and your guinea pig both lack a particular enzyme needed to perform this process. Thus, both human and guinea pig vitamin C requirements must be satisfied by external sources.


Your guinea pig must have a regular source of vitamin C or it will perish. Vitamin C is a water-soluble substance. Fat-soluble vitamins (like vitamins A, D, E and K) are dissolved by lipids – fat globules. Once these vitamins are absorbed by lipids, they are stored in your body’s tissues. Vitamin C, on the other hand, is not stored in the body. It is dissolved by water and any excess vitamin C in your guinea pig’s body will be excreted in the urine. Because vitamin C passes so quickly through your cavy’s body, they must be given supplements on a daily basis.

A great way to supplement your pig’s diet with the C vitamin is to feed them a diet rich in dark leafy vegetables such as parsley, kale or romaine lettuce. Be sure to avoid iceberg lettuce as it is mostly water and empty calories. It is essentially devoid of any nutritional value. As a general rule of thumb - the darker and richer the color of a fruit or vegetable – the more vitamins it contains.

To insure that your pig is getting sufficient amounts of daily vitamin C, it is also recommended that you supplement its diet with vitamin C supplements in the form of tablets or liquid drops. Tablets can be crushed and sprinkled on food or dissolved in drinking water. Liquid supplements can be added to drinking water or sprinkled on your guinea pig’s food.

Be careful when adding vitamin C to your pig’s drinking water. Vitamin C can be destroyed by substances found in tap water in certain regions. Your safest bet is to use distilled or purified water.

Your cavy needs vitamin C to survive. While supplementation is recommended, it should not be the only source of vitamin C for your guinea pig. Your pig’s diet should also contain plenty of dark green vegetables. Since vitamin C is water-soluble, there is little danger of giving too much vitamin C to your cavy. All excess vitamin C will be safely eliminated from the body in the urine.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Guinea Pigs – Who Are They and Where Did They Come From?

The cute and cuddly little guinea pig has anything but a cute and cuddly scientific name – Caviidae porcellus. The domestic guinea pig is a rodent and, among others, his relatives are the beaver, the mouse and the porcupine. Just where did this cute, cuddly little rodent come from? If you answered “the pet store”, you missed the meaning of my question completely.


The common guinea pig as we know it no longer exists in the wild. The domestic version is the only variety left today. However, relatives of the guinea pig still exist in the wild and from them we can better decipher the natural behavior of these types of animals.

Like most rodents and smaller animals, Guinea pigs are very prolific at reproducing. Due to their high mortality rate in the wild, this ability to reproduce rapidly is necessary to secure the survival of the species.

Guinea pigs are very social creatures. This is why it is highly advisable to keep pet guinea pigs in groups or, at least in pairs. In the wild, guinea pigs lived in groups called herds with a single male as the dominant leader. As with many herd animals, only the dominant male is accepted as mate by the females in the group. This insures that all offspring will be descended from only the strongest of males – another strategy designed to maximize chances for the survival of the species.

When domestic guinea pigs are housed in multi-level cages, they can be seen to scurry quickly down the ramp to the lower level when startled. This behavior is most likely left over from wild herd behavior when the rodents would quickly scamper into the cover of their underground burrows at the first sign of danger.

Guinea pigs originated in the Andean region of South America which consists of modern day Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru. Around 5000 B.C. the Inca Indians domesticated the guinea pig and used it for a food source. Eventually, they we imported to Europe from South America where the rich kept them as pets during the 17th century. In fact, England’s Queen Elizabeth I kept one herself. It was not until the early 20th century that the cavy made its way to the United States.

The guinea pig has gained a large following in the United States. It makes an idea pet for older children because of its docile and friendly nature and also because it is relatively easy and simple to care for. This adorable little rodent has been around for many centuries – from its existence in the wild - to its early domestic beginnings as a food source for the Incas - until its modern day role as companion and pet for children and adults alike across the United States and Europe.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Guinea Pigs – A Great Pet for Animal Lovers

Guinea pigs are intensely social creatures. In the wild they used to live in groups called herds. If you are planning on getting a guinea pig, you must realize that, in addition to obtaining a new family member, you are also making a binding social commitment. As descendents of herd animals, guinea pigs do not do well in solitary situations. As such, you must be prepared to set aside significant time each and every day as a guinea pig owner to interact with your pet – an easy and enjoyable task for animal lovers. If you are more of a hands-off admirer of animals – or if your busy schedule prohibits rich daily interaction with your cavy, then it is highly recommended that you get a second or third pig to satisfy your pet’s social requirements.


As I wrote earlier, owning a cavy should be viewed as a commitment. Either you must commit to spending extensive time with your pet each day or you must commit to being a multiple pig owner. Anything less would be a disservice to the animal.

In addition, to maintain good health (like humans) guinea pigs need regular daily exercise. Guinea pigs generally do not tend to use exercise wheels like hamsters. Instead you must either provide a cage large enough for your pig(s) to run around in – or you must give them daily exercise time. They will need to run freely but supervised in a protected room or other large area.

If your guinea pig is sharing the house with a dog or cat, you must take special care to protect your cavy. Dogs and cats are instinctively both predators and may very well view your precious cavy as prey. You will need to insure that your guinea pig is adequately protected from these types of inherent predator animals as well as young children. Very small children, while not technically predators, can still cause great harm to your guinea pig simply by exercising their sense of curiosity and playfulness.

One of the greatest pleasures in life is the joy of pet ownership. Guinea pigs can provide both entertainment and companionship. They can be very playful – especially in groups – racing around the cage, popcorning in the air like tiny Thomson’s Gazelles or nudging one another with their snouts. They can bring a smile to your face as they stand up against the cage wall in the morning and call to you with their squeaky “weeking” noises as they beg for their breakfast. Best of all, they can bring a warm glow to your heart as they relax and purr softly in your lap while you scratch them gently behind their tiny little ears.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Guinea Pigs – Cavies and Children – Are They a Good Mix?

If children are older and reasonably responsible, they can (and should) take on a role in the care of your family’s guinea pig. With the words: Okay, we’ll get a guinea pig – but you will have to take care of it, many parents are tempted to completely abdicate their pig care responsibilities and assign them all to the child. This is almost never a good idea. While caring for any living creature is a great learning opportunity (and the parent may even tell the child that they are totally in charge of the animal’s health, safety and welfare); ultimately, the final accountability should always remain with the responsible adult.


While full responsibility for your pig’s welfare should never be given to a child, it is actually a good learning experience to assign specific tasks to the children in the family. If the tasks are a life-critical – such as those involving food, water or supplements – the responsible parent must monitor the situation to make sure these duties are not being neglected. Your pigs’ lives depend on it! The parent should give occasional praise and positive reinforcements when the job is well done and they should give reminders and negative consequences when the job is neglected, forgotten or done poorly. Owning a pet is an excellent learning opportunity for your children – but it should never come at the expense of your pets’ health, safety or well-being.

If the task is less life-critical – such as cage-cleaning or giving the guinea pig daily attention and exercise - then monitoring does not need to be as diligent. However, this does not mean that you can simply delegate the task and walk away. Remember that ultimately the responsibility for your pigs’ safety and happiness falls on you - the parent. Also remember that the monitoring of tasks is for two very different and important reasons: 1) to insure the care, safety and comfort of your pet(s) and 2) to teach your kids to be responsible, caring and respectful pet-owners. So even if the task is not critical to your pigs’ health or safety, it is still an important part of your children’s transformation into responsible adults and community members.

It goes without saying that tasks assigned to children should be age-appropriate. That is, life-critical tasks should be assigned to older and more responsible children. Less critical tasks can be assigned to younger and less capable children. In either case, stretch your child by letting them do everything that they are capable of and by periodically adding new and harder tasks, but also be sure to give parental aid, coaching and guidance with any portions of the job that your child is not able to perform correctly.

It is a great learning experience for kids to be involved in the raising of a pet. However, all tasks assigned should be based upon your children’s age and ability. And at no point should you as a parent abdicate your responsibility in the situation. Ultimately, the responsibility for your guinea pigs’ health, safety and welfare rests on your shoulders.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Guinea Pig Cages – Where to Locate Your Cavy’s Home

You’ve brought home your new guinea pig(s), chosen a suitable and roomy cage – now, where do you put it? A) Garage, B) Closet C) In front of a window D) None of the above. The correct answer is D) none of the above. Among other requirements, cavies must be kept in a room with a stable temperature - free of drafts and out of direct sunlight. Finding a suitable location for your guinea pigs’ cage is a task that requires careful thought and diligence. When placing your pigs’ new home within your home, several factors should be considered.




Extreme Temperatures Should be Avoided.

You pigs do not tolerate extreme heat or cold very well. They should be kept in a room-temperature environment – a range of approximately 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius). This requirement immediately eliminates several areas in the home. Avoid placing the cage directly on heat registers, directly in front of a window, next to a radiator or fireplace or next to the oven. Also avoid putting your pigs any place where they may be exposed to cold drafts. The garage is out – too hot in summer too cold in winter. (The garage poses an additional hazard in that your pigs will be exposed to toxic carbon monoxide gas on a regular basis.) In terms of temperature: a rule of thumb is that your pigs like to live where you do. If you are too hot or too cold, chances are your guinea pigs are too.



Avoid Humid Areas

Guinea pigs’ respiratory systems are not the most robust. Cavies tend to be overly sensitive to upper respiratory infections. As such, placement in high-humidity locations such as your laundry room or near showers and baths should also be avoided. Also be cautious about placing your cavies in a basement area unless a dehumidifier has been installed and the area is well lit.



Avoid Isolation

Guinea pigs are social creatures. As such, they generally prefer to be around activity. Place your pig in or near a fairly high activity area. Great places are generally in the kitchen, living room, great room or family room – or wherever your family typically congregates in the home. Avoid placing your pigs’ home in rooms where it will undergo long periods of isolation or low traffic such as a child’s bedroom, in the basement or in a back hallway.



Choosing a high quality guinea pig cage is only the beginning task in creating a safe and healthy environment for your pet. Selecting a suitable location in your home is an equally critical task. Choose a location with a stable and moderate temperature and low humidity. In addition, chose a location in which your family can share their daily activities with your pigs. Don’t forget – your guinea pigs are family members too.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Guinea Pigs – Guinea Pig Sounds – What is Your Pig Saying to You?

Unlike rabbits, guinea pigs are not quiet animals. Guinea pigs make a lot of noise – especially in groups – and are in constant communication with each other and with their owners. As a guinea pig owner, you may be interested in the meaning of some of these sounds.




Loud Squeaking

Loud, piercing squeaking (often referred to as “wheeking”) is generally a cry for food. Your pigs are informing you that they are hungry and asking (actually insisting) that you feed them – NOW. This sound is most often heard around your pigs’ regular feeding time and often starts when your pigs first see you or when they hear the sound of plastic bags “crinkling” or any other clue that sounds like you might be preparing food for them.



Purring

Just like a cat, purring is a soft low-level rumbling sound that generally indicates contentment and comfort. Your pig will often purr when being petted. Listen to the purring for feedback as you scratch your piggy behind the ears or between the eyes. She will tell you when you hit the “sweet spots”.



Rumbling

Rumbling sounds similar to purring but is a deeper, stronger, more intense sound. While purring represents relaxation and contentment, rumbling is more associated with excitement – sexual excitement. You most often hear this sound from male pigs when they are around females who are in season. The rumbling sound is often part of a mating dance commonly called the “rumble-strut” in which the male struts and parades around the female - all the while emitting the rumble sound.



Chattering, Burbling, Muttering

This is a hard sound to describe, but a common one to hear if you own guinea pigs. This is the sound of guinea pig activity. It is kind of like the background din of chatter and conversation you may hear in an office or workplace. You will hear it when your pigs are engaged, active and content. You might hear it when you let your pigs out of their cage to exercise. After they relax and get used to their environment, they often start their low-level muttering as they wander and explore. It often sounds as if they are just muttering to themselves as they focus on different activities.



Teeth Chattering

When your guinea pig is chattering their teeth, it is not a good sound. It is the sound of an angry, frightened or otherwise upset pig. This is the sound of a pig who is annoyed and grumpy. Teeth chattering is a warning. He is saying, “Stay away! Leave me alone!” Two males may chatter at each other as they try to establish dominance over each other. Or your cavy may chatter at you as you try to pick them up – or “annoy” them in other ways.



Guinea pigs are not a silent pet. In fact, their rich, varied and frequent communication is one of the properties that makes them so endearing. The longer you own your pets, the more attuned you will become to the nature and meaning of their auditory messages.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Guinea Pigs – 7 Interesting Facts You Should Know

As a guinea pig owner, you no doubt have a keen interest in learning about their origins, habits, behaviors and characteristics.


1. Guinea pigs are herd animals – that is, their wild ancestors used to live together in groups called herds. As such, guinea pigs are very social creatures and do not do very well in solitary situations. Consider purchasing more than one guinea pig rather than a solitary pig. Two pigs is only slightly more work than one and your pigs will be very much healthier and happier if they live in the company of other cavies.

2. When housing two pigs together, a male a female couple make the best combination – just be sure at least one of them is “fixed” or you will soon be looking at your own private herd. Two females are the next best choice and almost always get along. Two males can sometimes be confrontational and aggressive toward each other unless they were raised together. Be very cautious when introducing two boars to each other as they may not initially get along.

3. As social animals, guinea pigs also enjoy the company of human companions. Your cavy may be shy at first and hide from you - that’s okay. Remember that this was a very useful trait out in the wild where almost everything they encountered was trying to eat them. If you are gentle and affectionate with your pet, they will in time, come to enjoy being petted and spending time with you.

4. As you interact with your pigs, try to do so at their level. Make an attempt to avoid towering over them as you stand near their cage. Remember, in the wild all predators came at them from above. They were assaulted by either ground-dwelling animals that loomed above them, or birds of prey that struck from out of the sky. On the other hand, friends and companions approached them at their own level.

5. Just like humans, guinea pigs need regular exercise. In general, standard pet store cages are too confining and are the equivalent of you or I spending our entire lives living in a bathroom. Larger cages – especially C&C (cubes and Coroplast) cages are preferred by many today and are a much healthier environment for your piggies. Good guidelines for cage size are to allow between six and seven square feet for a single pig and at least 7.5 square feet for two pigs living together. When it comes to living space, more is better.

6. Humans and guinea pigs share a common physiological trait. Neither can manufacture vitamin C within the body. Unlike many other mammals who synthesize vitamin C from glucose in the body, humans and your cavies are both missing a particular critical enzyme needed to carry out this process. Thus, guinea pigs and humans must both satisfy their vitamin C requirements through external sources.

7. Guinea pigs like to eat many kinds of fruits and vegetables. Generally the darker and richer colored a fruit or vegetable is, the more vitamins and nutrients it contains and the better it is for your cavy. In general, avoid pale light-colored items like iceberg lettuce which provide only empty calories.

Guinea pigs are cute and lovable animals that make wonderful pets. They are generally good natured and relatively easy to care for. The seven facts presented describe just a few of the behaviors and characteristics that make the guinea pig such an endearing and lovable animal.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Guinea Pig Cages – Why Your C&C Cage May Need a Bottom

In today’s short article, we are going to talk about bottoms. No – I don’t want to discuss your bottom – or even your guinea pig’s bottom. I want to talk about the need for incorporating a bottom when designing and building your C&C cage.


Go online and search for web pages and articles on how to build a C&C cage. The vast majority of results returned will show how to build a cage that looks less like a cage and more like a corral. If you examine it closely, you will note that this simplistic class of designs consists simply of a Coroplast bin or tub surrounded by a wire grid fence.

And I am not knocking this system. It is an absolutely fantastic and innovative design. It is both effective and efficient in its simplicity. It provides a lot of space for the money. And in my opinion, of all cubes and Coroplast designs out there; this simple, basic “pig corral” is the most economical and cost-effective design that can be had. However, there is one caveat – and it is an important one.

In my mind, this class of bottomless cage is generally safe only when used on the ground. Let me explain why.

To make visualization easier, let’s ignore the litter bin for just a moment. Suppose we place just the “fence” on a table. That’s right; we would have just a wire grid rectangle sitting on a table. Here’s a common scenario: A standard folding table is 6-feet (72-inches) by 30-inches wide. A common size for C&C cage width is 56-inches by 28-inches. So there is plenty of room (8-inches to spare) on each side. There is only an inch to spare in front of and behind the cage.

If we nudge the cage forward until the front wall of the rectangle slips off, there is really no problem. The front edge of the fence will now rest on the two sides and these two sides still hold the structure on the table as long as it’s not pushed too far off the front edge. The same goes if it’s pushed off either side. The cage will sit on the front and back walls.

The trouble comes when the rectangle is bumped diagonally off the table so that it slides off one of the corners (for instance the front-left corner). In this case, the entire left side wall and the front wall are nudged off the edge. The remaining two walls (back wall and right side wall) are unable to support the cage so it falls off the table diagonally.

Now let’s put the Coroplast bin back into the corral. Slide the cage off the front or side – once again, no problem. The cage rests on two opposite sides with the litter bin still contained within. But, nudge it diagonally off the table and it slides off the table – and depending upon weight distributions and forces, it may very well pull the litter bin onto the floor with it. At the very least, it will probably create a large litter catastrophe for you to clean up. At worst, you could be looking at an injured pig.

Now let’s add a bottom to our cage. Nudge the cage diagonally off of the table and two sides no longer fall off the edge. Even with two edges off the table, the cage does not fall off the table because it now rests on its bottom.

If you are having difficulty imagining the situation I have described, see our descriptive BlueStoneCommerceYouTube video which very effectively exhibits this situation.
When considering a C&C cage design, many people consider a cage bottom to be an unnecessary addition. And if the cage is to be placed on the ground then, except for adding some structural reinforcement, the cage bottom serves little purpose. If, on the other hand, the cage is to be placed on a table, then a cage bottom can make the cage considerably more stable, more reliable and safer for your pigs. As an alternative, you can also fasten the cage to the table top to prevent movement or attach a lip to the table edges so that the cage cannot be bumped off.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Guinea Pigs – How to Exercise Your Guinea Pig

With a hamster, you can just toss a wheel in its cage and it’ll hop right on it and chug away – going nowhere – and he’ll be perfectly happy. It reminds me of the people you see at the health club - chugging away on their elliptical trainers – going nowhere – but getting healthier. Toss a wheel into your guinea pig’s cage and see what happens. Chances are she’ll chew on it – that is until she gets bored and ignores it.


You also know what to do with a dog. Put it on a leash and take it for a walk. When was the last time you saw anyone outside walking their guinea pig? What’s good for dogs is not necessarily good for guinea pigs.

So how do you give your pig exercise to make sure he stays healthy and happy?

Simple – you let him run free. Find a safe area in your home that is confined and free of hazards like electrical cords. Guinea pigs are notorious chewers and, given the chance, can easily chew through the insulation on an electrical cord and electrocute themselves.

Cavies spend most of their lives in their cage. If your pig is confined in an area too small to exercise (such as a standard size manufactured cage), she will need to get at least 25 minutes of free-running exercise every day. If your pig is being kept in a larger C&C (Cubes and Coroplast) cage, then she may be already getting a fair amount of exercise.

If your cavies live in a large cage, watch them when they are in their home. Do they scurry around a lot? Do they run “laps” around the cage? Do you see a lot of popcorning? Do your pigs generally walk and move around much of the time?

If so, then you can be sure they are getting at least some exercise. My recommendation is that if your pig is generally active in its cage, then it should still get out to really stretch its legs and run free at least 25 minutes every other day. If you have a sedentary pig who generally just eats and sleeps, then - even though it may live in a large cage - I still recommend that it get out to explore and exercise daily for at least 25 minutes.

Even if your pig is “hyperactive” in his cage I still recommend that he get out at least every other day for nothing other than mental stimulation. Changing your pig’s environment and exposing him to new and exciting situations will stimulate his brain and cause new neural connections to form. Pigs are curious little creatures who love to wander and explore – sniffing and nibbling on new objects as they discover new things.

Guinea pigs spend most of their lives confined in their living quarters. If you have provided them with a large cage such as a C&C cage, then they will have a greater opportunity for exercise in their own home. Regardless, your pigs should still get out and explore daily, if possible, to insure that they get adequate exercise and mental stimulation. It is your responsibility as a caring pet owner.

Friday, December 11, 2009

Guinea Pigs – The Role of the Guinea Pig in Today’s World

Guinea pigs – we’re all familiar with this small rodent. We know what they look like and what they’re used for. They’re cute little rodents and they are pets. As far as most of us in the western world are concerned, that’s the complete story. But there is much more to the tale of the guinea pig’s history and its contribution to human society across the globe.


In the United States and Europe guinea pigs have become popular pets. Known and revered for their docile and friendly nature and for their cute demeanor, guinea pigs are adored by children and adults alike in the west. They have become the family pet of choice in thousands of households. They are relatively easy to care for and inexpensive to own. They are generally good natured and rarely bite.

Guinea pigs live an average of about five years and may even live to seven years. They are best kept indoors in a temperature-controlled environment. They do best in a standard “room temperature” setting (65 to 75 degrees).

In addition, serious cavy breeders raise these animals as show animals. Guinea pigs are exhibited in sanctioned events across the nation. The American Rabbit Breeders Association is the official registry for cavies in the United States.

Unfortunately, the common usage of the “guinea pig” label in our English language is derived from one of our poor cavy’s more unpleasant roles – that of the laboratory test subject. They were used extensively in the 1800’s and 1900’s as research test animals. So much so that the name guinea pig gradually became a popular idiom denoting a test or sacrificial subject. Fortunately for the guinea pig, this usage is decreasing as laboratories turn increasingly more to other rodents – most notably rats and mice.

In South America, the story is very much different and bleaker for our furry little friend. The cavy has a completely different history in this area of the world. The guinea pig originated in South America. Today there are no guinea pigs left in the wild. However, in years past when they did live in the wild – South America was their stomping ground. The originally came from in the Andean region of South America. Nowadays this region is made up of modern day Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru.

The Inca Indians domesticated this little beast around 5000 B.C. and raised it for food. Because of this unfortunate precedent, the cavy is still eaten today in this region of the world. In small Indian villages, people still raise the little rodent for food just as western farmers raise and eat barnyard animals.

Yes, we think of the guinea pig as only a pet – as a companion for our children and for us. But this creature has other roles – some familiar and some extremely foreign to us. They are raised and sold by breeders to be used as show animals. Some guinea pigs are specially bred and sold to research companies to be used as laboratory test subjects. And in South America, they are a food source. We should be grateful for the guinea pig. Over the years, this seemingly insignificant little rodent has contributed to the human race in many ways.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Guinea Pigs - Characteristics of the Common Guinea Pig

Over the past century, the guinea pig has become a popular pet in the United States. While we are all familiar with this common animal, there are many facts concerning it that are not necessarily common knowledge. Please read along as we discover and discuss some interesting facts about this common and loveable house pet.


The guinea pig has a very delicate bone structure. Because of this, guinea pigs bones break fairly easily. For this reason guinea pigs should be handled carefully and loosely. Never squeeze or hug a guinea pig tightly. Also, one must be very careful to insure that guinea pigs are not dropped from excessive heights nor allowed to jump from high surfaces such as tables, chairs or sofas.

Guinea pigs have a total of 14 toes. Each front paw has four toes and the back feet each have three toes. When guinea pigs walk or run, they do so only on these toes. The entire foot rests on the ground only when the pigs are standing.

Unlike squirrels, mice or many other rodents; when eating, guinea pigs do not sit on their haunches and grip food between their front paws. Their style is to feed more like a horse or a dog – simply standing on all fours and grazing out of a dish, a bowl or from the ground.

In general, guinea pigs are friendly, congenial and peaceful animals. Two females can easily live with each other with little or no conflict. A male and a female nearly always get along very well (although one of the pair should obviously be neutered in order to prevent an in-cage population explosion). Two males, if raised together will also generally make a good pair. However, if a new male is introduced into another male’s home, there will most likely be some hostile behavior – at least in the beginning.

Two males in the presence of one or more females are a bad idea. They can become quite aggressive and adversarial toward one another as they compete for the females. In the wild, guinea pigs used to live in packs. The pack’s dominant male was the only male allowed to mate with any of the females. This increased the chances of survival of the offspring because it insured that all of the children were descended from the strongest and fittest male available. Although guinea pigs no longer exist in the wild, this holdover behavior can still be observed in our domesticated pigs.

Guinea pigs have a very acute sense of hearing. Like dogs, they are able to hear frequencies or tones above the human range of hearing. Human beings can only hear frequencies up to 20 kHz (vibrations at 20,000 times per second) whereas cavies can hear frequencies as high as 33 kHz.

The guinea pig is very dependent upon its very keen sense of smell. The cavy’s sense of smell is one-thousand times more sensitive and discerning than that of a human being.

The guinea pig is an animal that is very common to most of us in the western world. And although it is quite familiar to us as a family pet and as a laboratory animal, there is much information about this little rodent that is not commonly known. I hope that the newly-gained knowledge from this discussion will help you to better understand the actions and behaviors of your own pet guinea pigs as you interact with them on a daily basis.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Guinea Pig Cages – Is Your Guinea Pig Cage Large Enough?

Your choice of cage is one of the most important considerations in determining the quality of life that your guinea pig will enjoy while living under your care. One must keep in mind that the cage is much more than just a container or enclosure to contain the cavy; it is the most major and important element in your pig’s immediate living environment. As such, the selection of a cage for your cavy is a serious matter and should be not be taken lightly.


When considering a cage, be sure that your pig has plenty of room to move around and be comfortable. Most importantly, your pig needs room to exercise. If the quarters are too cramped, your pig will not move around much and will not get its much-needed exercise. Guinea pigs do not use exercise wheels like hamsters. Because of this they need a cage large enough to facilitate walking, hopping, “popcorning” and other full-body exercise.

Also remember that the pigs will not be the only objects taking up space in the cage. You will need to provide them with a comfortable nest box or other similar shelter. In addition, your pig will need other accessories such as a food dish, hay rack, water bottle and perhaps some toys.

As a general rule, most standard pet store cages are too small and cramped to allow adequate living space for your cavy. And to make matters worse - once you place the nest box and all the other accessories we mentioned above in the cage, there is little room left for the animal.

How do you know if a cage is big enough? There are various guidelines for sizing guinea pig cages that can easily be found online. These criteria are based upon the number of cavies being housed. However, in my opinion, the best cage-sizing method is to simply use your own common sense: if your pigs look cramped – they are cramped. Put yourself in their place. How would you like to spend your entire life living in an enclosure the size of your bathroom? If you put a nest box, bowl, etc. in a cage and it leaves an area that is only one or two body-lengths long for your pig to live in; it’s only common sense that this cage is too small.

Due to the fact that manufactured cages are generally too small to provide a healthy environment for your pigs, a new type of cage has emerged over the past few years and is rapidly gaining in popularity. This type of cage was invented by a pig rescue organization in order to economically house a large number of pigs. This type of cage is called a C&C or cubes and Coroplast cage. These cages are much larger than manufactured pet store cages and offer a much healthier environment for your pigs. These cages are being built from scratch by do-it-yourselfers or purchased as kits from a growing number of online C&C cage sellers.
C&C cages are constructed from metal wire grids and sheets of corrugated plastic. The metal grid panels are fastened together to form the walls of the enclosure and the corrugated plastic sheet is formed into a bin or pan to contain the bedding as well as your pigs’ waste materials. This combination allows an efficient and economical design which provides a large and spacious enclosure for your pets at a relatively low cost.

When purchasing or building an enclosure for your pet guinea pig, be sure to provide adequate living space to insure that your pig enjoys a healthy environment. Most manufactured pet store cages do not meet modern pet enclosure standards. As a result, people in increasing numbers are turning to C&C cages to provide the spacious environment that their pets need and deserve.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Guinea Pig Cages: The Most Commonly Overlooked Factor in Choosing a Cage

When you go shopping for a guinea pig cage, what are the things you consider? Color? Price? An attractive design? People choose their cages based upon many different criteria. However, there is one extremely important factor that often gets overlooked or ignored.


The most commonly overlooked factor in choosing a guinea pig cage appears to be cage size. Sure, people may think they look at cage size when purchasing a cage. But, judging by the number of small, “standard” pet store cages still being purchased every year, it is clear that people do not really look at cage size.

Let’s do a little thought experiment. The average guinea pig is about 9 to 15 inches in length. The average height for a human is roughly 5’4” to 5’10”. An average pet store cage is 24-inches by 16-inches.

Put yourself in your pig’s place. An equivalent size room for you would be approximately 8-ft by 12-feet - the size of a large bathroom or a small bedroom. So, living your entire life in a large bathroom or small bedroom may not seem horrible – but it would certainly be a challenge to get a significant amount of exercise in a space that small.

Another related factor that I’m convinced that people do not consider when sizing a cage are the additional accessories that your pig requires - such as a nest box, a food dish and a hay rack.

So let’s return to our hypothetical equivalent room. When we add a nest box to our pig’s cage, we are adding an item that is perhaps 10 to 12-inches on each side. That might be equivalent to building a seven-foot by seven-foot storage shed and placing it our hypothetical equivalent room with us.

Add a food dish to your pig’s cage (about half the size of your pig) and it’s like throwing a kiddie pool – three-feet in diameter in the middle of the floor in our room.

Of course we’re going to need a water bottle. This would be roughly equivalent to something the size of a hot water heater standing in the corner of our equivalent room.

A hay rack is has a footprint of approximately four by seven inches. So adding a hay rack to the wall might be roughly equivalent to pushing a couple of nightstands up against one of the walls in our hypothetical equivalent room and placing them side-by side.

Does this sound like a lot of room? Does it sound like someplace you would like to spend the rest of your life? Let us review.

We start by moving into an 8 x 12 room – an area roughly the size of a large bathroom or a small bedroom. Next we put up a 7x7 storage shed in the corner. This leaves us with an eight-foot by five-foot space in front of the shed and a useless one-foot by seven-foot narrow strip along the side of the shed.

Then, to make matters worse, we place a three-foot wading pool, a water heater and two nightstands in our remaining 8x5 living space. What does this leave us with? We are left with a very small and cramped area in which to live. And, worst of all, our health begins to suffer because exercise becomes a nearly impossible task.

When you buy your next cage, consider the situation from your pig’s point of view. Look – really look – at the space situation facing your guinea pig and select a cage big enough to provide an adequate and comfortable living space. Over the past several years, C&C (Cubes and Coroplast) cages are gaining in popularity for this very reason – they provide a spacious, healthy environment for a reasonable price.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Guinea Pigs – How to Care for Your Cavy

The guinea pig – also known as a cavy – is one of the more popular pets in North America. This is largely because they are friendly, docile and amiable creatures. And with few special needs, they are also relatively easy to care for. There are many varieties of guinea pigs varying in color, size, markings and hair type.


When choosing a cage for your guinea pigs, be sure to select an enclosure with adequate ventilation and sufficient floor space. Never put your pig in an aquarium or a deep-walled box. The ammonia fumes produced by your pigs’ urine can cause respiratory problems for your pets if they are concentrated by glass or other solid walls and not allowed to dissipate into the surrounding air.

Also be sure to provide ample living space so that your pigs can live comfortably and enjoy the opportunity for sufficient exercise. A standard rule of thumb for living space requirements is to allow a minimum of 6 square feet for a single pig, 7.5 square feet for two pigs living together, 10.5 square feet for three cavies and 13 square feet for four pigs. Keep in mind that these are minimum requirements. When it comes to cage size – more is always better.

Your cage should be filled with bedding to absorb urine and keep your pigs clean and dry. Clay litter should never be used. Dust from this type of litter can also cause respiratory problems if inhaled by your pigs. Bedding produced from recycled newspaper is an effective and healthy choice.

Fleece is becoming a popular alternative to bedding. Fleece does not absorb the urine, but allows the liquid to wick through - thereby keeping your cavies dry and happy. A layer of absorbent material should be placed under the fleece in order to contain the urine after it passes through the layer of fleece.

Guinea pigs are fond of fresh fruits and vegetables. Be sure to choose fruits and vegetables that are dark in color. In general, lighter colored fruits and vegetables are lacking in nutrition. Never feed your cavy pale-colored vegetables (such as iceberg lettuce) which offer very little besides water and empty calories.

Like humans, guinea pigs lack a critical enzyme that allows its body to manufacture vitamin C. For this reason, it is critical that your cavy receives a vitamin C supplement every day.

It you want your guinea pig to like and trust you, you will need to treat it with respect. Never handle it roughly. When picking it up, always support your guinea pig’s bottom from underneath. Also, your cavy’s bones can be easily broken, so be careful not to squeeze your guinea pig too tightly nor drop it from excessive heights. The more you handle your guinea pig (providing you handle it gently), the more comfortable it will become with you.

The guinea pig is one of the most popular pets in North America for many reasons. It can be an affectionate and enjoyable little animal friend when treated with kindness and respect. And with appropriate parental guidance, its docile and friendly nature makes it an excellent pet for a young child.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Guinea Pigs - The History and Origins of the Guinea Pig

Guinea pigs and humans share a history of more than 10,000 years. The cavy originated in Central and South America. In the wild, their domain extended through Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru. The cavy was domesticated by the Inca Indians somewhere around 7,000 or 8,000 years ago. They were used as not only a food source but also as a sacrificial animal – sacrificed to the sun god - in religious ceremonies.


In the wild, guinea pigs lived in small groups or herds. For this reason, they are inherently social creatures and do not do well if kept in solitude. It is recommended that they be kept at least in pairs.

Cavies first made their way back to Europe on the ships of Spanish conquistadores during the 1500’s. They eventually also came to Holland, England and France. At first, these pets were reserved only for the wealthy and elite. They were much too expensive for anyone but the rich. But their ability to reproduce so quickly soon made the European supply of guinea pigs swell. As the price fell, popularity of the little beast increased as they became affordable to the common people of Europe. It was not until the 1800’s – more than 300 years after it landed in Europe - that the cavy finally made its way to the United States.

Sadly, in the mid 1800s, the cavy was put to use in laboratories as a research test subject. In fact, it was used so extensively for this purpose that its name eventually became synonymous with this function. Fortunately for the guinea pig, this usage has dropped off in recent years as laboratories turn to other rodent species for these purposes.

In any event, it is not known for certain how the guinea pig received its name. It is obviously not a pig, nor is it from Guinea. People have speculated that perhaps roasted guinea pigs reminded Europeans of suckling pigs (piglets). Others suggest that the cavy may have been transported to Europe on ships from the port of Guiana. Others feel that the guinea pig’s squeal may have reminded people of a pig’s squeal. In the end, the origin of the guinea pig’s unusual name has most likely been lost to us forever.

The proper name for the guinea pig is the cavy (pronounced kay-vee). This name is derived from the scientific name: Cavia porcellus. Technically speaking, guinea pigs are caviomorphs. Caviomorphs are South American rodents who share the following characteristics: a single pair of mammary glands, four toes on each front foot and three toes on each back foot.

The history of the guinea pig has been intertwined with that of humans for thousands of years. The cavy was first domesticated as early as 5,000 B.C. by the Inca Indians of South America. They were brought to Europe in the sixteenth century and they made their way across the Atlantic Ocean to the United States of America in the 1800s. And today they have taken their place, here in North America, as one of our most favorite pets.